I left Cabo San Lucas at the crack of dawn around 11am without much of an literary. All I had to do was get to La Paz. It was only a short ride of 150km and all that had to be done once there was obtain a temporary import permit for the bike for mainland Mexico. I decided to take the new road back because I came down on highway one. It sure was a new road, in fact some of it’s so new that it still resembles the field’s surrounding it. It was good fun to ride though, the beauty of the GS ( my bike ) is that you can change the suspension, lowering or raising, hardening or softening, with the touch of a button. It makes easy work of most terrain. After a few hours of scrambling around in the 40 deg heat I felt like I was going to pass out so I headed for a surf spot along the coast hoping for a restaurant. Well there was a restaurant there once a upon a time. It looked like some storm came and took care of it though. I was honestly beginning to melt, there was no shelter from the searing sun anywhere, all you had out there were millions of useless cacti. There is absolutely no shelter from them ,they are one useless plant unless you like tequila and honestly who the hell likes tequila?
I had no option but make tracks for La Paz and get a room so as I could get the hell out of the ridiculous heat. On route I took a detour to the ferry terminal to sort out the boat ticket for tomorrow ( boats only go every second day ) and clear customs. Clearing customs couldn’t have been easier, there was a very helpful senorita there that spoke the English very well. When I was done I got chatting with one of the custom’s guys about bikes and such. When I told him where I was headed he informed my that there was a truck carrier heading to Mazatlan today. I went to the office to inquire and they said if I can clear customs, get the bike weighed, pay the ridiculous fee and be on the boat in 20 min I’m very welcome. Having just chatted with the customs guy this was a breeze, getting the bike weighed was a hysterical affaire but I managed and was on the boat in less then the allocated time.
I strapped the bike down myself after all the trucks were parked and went to have a look around. I had absolutely no idea if there was food or water on board ( I had none) or how long this trip was going to take. No one on board could speak the English and my Spanish is mainly reserved for greetings only. Oh well I guessed I’d find out sooner or later. The seasoned pro’s had all claimed their spots under the lifeboats in the shade, there was surprisingly very little shade on board for such a large vessel. The rest of us just wandered from side to side as the boat changed direction clinging to walls for whatever protection we could get. Now my GPS is complete crap, it only works when it’s got a phone reception and even then it keeps going on an off. It never works when I need it so I figured now that I’m on a boat and wont be needing it, it will surely be working. Walla it was, so I calculated the ships path and figured out where the shade would be when we were on course, I then gathered my belongings and set up camp. It worked a treat.
About an hour later I noticed everyone else missing, I finally tracked them all to the galley. It was feeding time at the zoo. 40-50 truckers stuffing their faces like they’d never eaten before. I dutifully joined in. I was soon approached by an English-speaking guy and a list of questions. They all wanted to know who I was and what I was doing ect. After they were informed the usual stories came out, the fact that everywhere is dangerous and I shouldn’t go here or there and I defiantly shouldn’t go to Guatemala, “you’ll surely get killed there I heard”.I’m sick of these stories so now I just excuse my self and wander off. I don’t care if everywhere is dangerous, I’m still going. Half of them guys on the boat looked like they’d rob you and throw you overboard in a heart beat too if they thought they’d get away with it. After dinner I retired to my piece of rusting green floor and settled in for the night. I read till the light was no more than relaxed in a warm gentle breeze to the sound of the waves breaking off the bow whilst lying beneath the stars. It was good to have someone else drive for a while.
I awakened from a great nights sleep to the sound of the fog horn to find I hadn’t been robed or killed. We were actually approaching the dock too, a hole 4 hours earlier than scheduled. I had missed breakfast completely but I didn’t care. I just wanted to ride. I had to head down and unstrap my bike because it was blocking everyone else from leaving. As soon as the door opened I was off, off as far as the nearest restaurant. I fueled my gut filled the bike with oil and gas and headed off south into the unknown. All I knew is I felt like riding an that’s what I was gonna do. Mainland Mexico is nothing like Baja, green vegetation and trees are everywhere instated of cacti and dirt. It resembles Europe in places. Also I found out that if I stay away from the coast it’s not so warm so I’ve change my route accordingly. I ended up 800km away from the port of Mazatlan where I started this morning in a town called Morellia. It was one of the Spanish settlers first cities and it’s real nice. Apparently the police and the drug cartels have been fighting over the place for the last 5 years. I’ve been told it doesn’t affect tourists though, not since one of the drug lords muppets threw hand grenades into the crowd at a festival in 2009 anyway’s.
Great writing Kev, painting a great picture in my head .Take care .
sounds like you are having a real blast. Keep up the great writting. I be entering Mexico soon myslef.
As I’m working for BMW Motorrad in Cork, finding this site interesting, we’ve a few riders in doing similar but not all continents, Super photos… Steve Joyce, Ballincollig.
sounds all good mate….leaving WA for the moto gp with 7 mates from Brockman mine….nice to have another 6 weeks or so of bike travel….cheers geoff