I got another bee sting today, luckily not on the nipple this time.
I left Oaxaca for somewhere north but changed my mind at a traffic light and went south in to the mountains instead. It was the twistiest road I’d ever ridden. In fact it was too twisty, that’s something I thought I’d never say but most of that road was a killer, there was a turn every 15 meters for 120km. When I reached the first summit the clouds rolled in and the rain came on heavy. It was still warm so I left my rain gear in my panniers and kept riding. Within ten minutes the rain was so heavy I was soaked through, next came the landslides, rocks at first, soon followed by rocks and soil, a little further the trees started to come with. The rain was washing everything downhill. there was nothing I could do except press on and hope the road didn’t slide out from underneath me. I then had a near miss with a boulder that rolled out in front of me as I took a corner. I was actually getting a little concerned for my life. There was nowhere safe for the next 80km but finally the road yielded and took me down, introducing me to the tropics at the same time.
I made my way back up north along the coast to the beach town of Puerto Escondido. I was beginning to think I was the only gringo in Mexico until I discovered this whole town full of surfers from all over the world. It’s home to a wave called the Mexican pipeline which is actually a little impressive. While strolling about town I noticed two similar bikes to mine parked in a secure compound. I easily gained access as the security gaurd watched on. Mexico.
There was a web address on the bikes which I looked up over a beer. I soon made contact with the owners who were just across the street in a different bar. They’re two Ozzy guys, the bergaliaboys.com ,Wade and Phillip ( and Philips girlfriend Ericka who’s along for a bit of the trip ) who are on a trip from the Arctic circle to the Antarctic circle. They’re actually planning on riding in Antarctica some how.
The next morning we all headed off to find a nice quiet remote beach, hopefully containing a bar or restaurant. About 180km later we randomly selected and turned down a dirt track towards the sea. We came across some shacks but not much else. Just then Wade spotted a BMW bike and its owners lying in a hammock. They turned out to be an English couple that the guys had me before and that I’d already been in contact with through horizons unlimited a motorbike adventure travel site. There were no bars or restaurants but the woman who owned the shack the English couple were staying in agreed to make us some food and we managed to secure a cabana to sleep in. While unpacking another 3 people on bikes arrived. How we all found this place and at the same time is a mystery. Now there were nine people all heading from Alaska to Argentina on this remote beach somewhere in Mexico. The women of the shacks agreed to feed us all as long as we paid , they even went to town for supply’s, and beer. We all had dinner while swapping stories and decided to stay another day. We all shared the little rooms of our Cabana between us. I had a greats night sleep in a hammock on the porch . We spent the next day doing sod all, eating and swimming. Some of the guys went fishing and caught a tuna of some sorts which we had for dinner. It was great to finally have a few days on a nice beach.
The Celt sent me a link and I am now an avid (but jealous!) follower of your posts. Keep ‘er lit and keep between the ditches. These are the days that must happen to you.
Good to hear you met up with those Aussie bikers, sounds like it was good fun. You were lucky to meet those people who looked after you. I’m glad everything going ok.
That is mental that you hooked up with all those bikers. Daycent!
We did something like the same route as you’re doing (oaxaca, puerto escondido, san cristobal) except by bus. And those windy roads were something else but what cool towns. There was a round of the world surfing champs on in puerto Escondido when we arrived so a mad buzz in the place and mariachi bands all over the shop. Great craic, always wanted my own mariachi band.
Hey enjoy San cristobal, sleepy enough town but surrounded by mountains.
Must remember to stay logged in to skype on my phone so giveus a bell some evening.
Glad to read your still in communication, Claire told me you had broken your laptop and I was wondering how you’d manage. The photos are great. Delighted you met some company along the way, looks like you were enjoying dinner! Keep safe.